Culinarian 08.10.08

NAME: Camille Becerra

BIRTHPLACE: San Juan, Puerto Rico

CURRENT POSITION: Restaurateur / Chef

BACKGROUND: From early on my association with food meant culture.  As a kid in Elizabeth, New Jersey if I wasn’t eating rice and beans at home I was taking the train to the West Village for pizza on 9th Street and 6th Ave.  At my friend Brigitte’s I ate Portuguese, sampling snails and the delicious clam, pork and fried potatoes dish, at Valerie’s house I learned Italian, chicken parmesan and eggplant, at Aileen’s Cuban picadillo and the hallways of my builing were often pungent with Indian masala.  One of my earliest dining experience memories was going out to dinner every Friday.  After my mom got out of work we’d go to Spirito’s.  Still serving American Italian to this day I remember sitting at the bar with my mom because the dining room of the restaurant was always packed.  Frank, the owner who was also the bartender knew us by name and would greet me with a bottomless Shirley Temple.  Every week Frank would serve us the veal cutlet and the melt in your mouth ravioli.  The thing that impressed me most at Spirto’s was the walk to the women’s bathroom through the large white tiled kitchen. I was so intrigued by the fast pace within and how all the cooks were so focused among the apparent chaos. The memories of the energy of Spirito’s kitchen could very well be why I opened a restaurant some 25 years later.

Camille Becerra, winner of a sexy chef contest, prepares cheese popovers and wild trout with oysters, mushrooms, frisee, roasted butternut squash and a prickly cucumber vinagrette at Paloma, the restaurant she opened two years ago at 60 Greenpoint Ave.

EXPERIENCE: My creativity in the kitchen was put to the test early on.  I was 19 and the tenso at a Zen Buddhist center in California.  I was responsible for feeding 30 people three meals a day.  All the ingredients were donated by the Los Angeles produce market so I had to make a balanced offering of what was available.  It was also there that I learned the simplistic qualities of Japanese cooking.  Training at the Academy of Culinary Arts I learned classical French cuisine and worked various positions in an array of different style restaurants. 


Later, I became interested in Macrobiotic cooking.  I learned a great deal about it training under private macrobiotic chefs who created meals for clients who prioritized health sustaining food. Today I am the chef and owner of Paloma located in Greenpoint, Brooklyn.  I named the restaurant after my daughter who cuts the gnocchi, preps asparagus and tastes the chocolate cake batter to make sure it is sweet enough.

NYC EDITORIAL REVIEW

What makes
Paloma a truly different neighborhood spot is the dream that owners Camille Becerra and Darius Rivera desire to share with the rest of the community. Inspired by the 80’s café/club culture forever exiled from rent-mad Manhattan, Becerra & Rivera offer New York a gracious space with soaring ceilings and a pleasing mix of urban elements: polished concrete, warm hardwood and gallery-white walls sporting revolving art exhibits.

The Food: Defined as “New Urban American,” the regularly-changing menu is based on simple, fresh ingredients borrowing elements from the multitude of cultures that glitter across the New York cityscape. Rather than aiming at the usual fusion, Paloma takes a stab at deconstructionism; for example, a traditional dish like bouillabaisse might be broken down to its basic elements and then served as a filet of monkfish, a single perfect shrimp and a flower of potatoes decorated with a bouillabaisse sauce. On the other hand, one can find a fresh brook trout simply grilled and served with a side dish of the diner’s choosing. Simple and thoughtful is the rule. Nothing on the menu exceeds fifteen dollars, and there are plenty of offerings for under ten. You will not have to deconstruct your wallet.

Popular menu fixtures include the brook trout, hangar steak and the much-admired burgers. The specials can be a gamble, but sometimes the best gamble is a vegetarian one. There is clearly a love for and sensibility to the preparation of all things vegetal, due largely to Camille’s post-culinary school odyssey among vegetarian and macrobiotic master chefs. Sometimes the vegetarian specials are the best thing on the menu.

Our only concern is consistency in the kitchen. As is often true with new ventures, it is best to go when the owner/chef is on hand. But as Paloma finds her wings and gets into the groove, the minor missed notes will dissipate.

The Scene: While the kitchen remains the epicenter, Paloma exists to be more than a restaurant. In many ways, Paloma is part Craft, part Nuyorican Poets Café, part Galapagos, and part pure Camille. It is an art space and a haunt for the creative. Local visual artists, filmmakers, DJ’s, bands and poets are welcome here, and often have exhibits. It is not unusual to find something going on after dinner, anything from a film screening to a five-piece band to a tasting of infused vodkas designed by Camille (these can be exceptional).

The Dream: Paloma seeks to be a space that celebrates urban life, to be a venue that exalts art and artists, to be a luminous gem in a sometimes jaded world. Everything about Paloma springs from free expression and a desire to welcome and to share. If New Urban American means opening up ones arms to embrace all that the cityscape has to offer, then Paloma is the vanguard of that new order.
Still evolving, Paloma is a place to watch.

Q&A

MYCUIZINE: Describe how you got into cooking. 

CAMILLE: Making meals for cute boys I wanted to impress. 

MYCUIZINE: What is your favorite comfort food?

CAMILLE: Sweet Potato and Miso Mash

MYCUIZINE: What is your best experience you had?

CAMILLE: Bourgeois dinner parties.

MYCUIZINE: What was your best cooking experience?

CAMILLE: Cooking on Top Chef.

MYCUIZINE: What was your worst cooking experience?

CAMILLE: Cooking on Top Chef.

MYCUIZINE: What is your greatest cooking strength?

CAMILLE: Mixing local and seasonal ingredients with global influences.

MYCUIZINE: What motivates you to do your best on the job?

CAMILLE: The stream of hipster foodies that dine at my restaurant.

MYCUIZINE: Describe your management style.

CAMILLE: Make my staff happy the rest falls in place.

MYCUIZINE: Tell me about your proudest culinary achievement.

CAMILLE: Paloma my Brooklyn restaurant.

Camille Becerra, winner of a sexy chef contest, prepares cheese popovers and wild trout with oysters, mushrooms, frisee, roasted butternut squash and a prickly cucumber vinagrette at Paloma, the restaurant she opened two years ago at 60 Greenpoint Ave. in Brooklyn.

MYCUIZINE: What is your favorite cookbook you refer to for inspiration?

CAMILLE: Old vintage French cookbooks, Susan goin's Sunday suppers at Lucques and Alice Waters, also Brooklyn Food Zines like edible Brooklyn. 

MYCUIZINE: What is your greatest cooking fear?

CAMILLE: Forgetting popovers in the oven.

MYCUIZINE: What is your favorite cooking show?

CAMILLE: Top Chef

MYCUIZINE: Name 5 of your favorite kitchen tools or gadgets.

CAMILLE: Cuisinart food processor, Kitchen Aid mixer, spice grinder, 8in chef's knife, steel.

MYCUIZINE: Who are your cooking heroes / mentors?

CAMILLE:  Superhero: Alice Waters / Mentor: Tom Colicchio

 

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